Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Post #2: Cusco - The navel of the world

January 28, 2011
Left Orlando, Florida, arrived Lima, Peru. 
Spent the night: Ramada Hotel at airport.

January 29, 2011
Left Lima, Peru 8:20 a.m. on Star Peru flight
Arrive Cusco, Peru 9:40 a.m.
Check in Taypikala Hotel
Cusco City Tour 1:00 p.m.

Before we reached the summit of Machu Picchu, called the Lost City of the Incas, our first stop was Cusco, a city and surrounding area full of Incan ruins, altitude: 3,400 m (11,200 ft).  It rained on and off.  We stayed at the Taypikala Hotel, which we recommend - nice and clean. 

Who were the Incas?

For a nice article on the Incans, click here: Incan civilization.  Here's a paragraph:

"Between 1200 and 1535 AD, the Inca population lived in the part of South America extending from the Equator to the Pacific coast of Chile. The beginning of the Inca rule started with the conquest of the Moche Culture in Peru. The Inca were warriors with a strong and powerful army. Because of the fierceness of their army and their hierarchical organization, they became the largest Native American society. The height of their reign in the 15th century came to a brutal end in 1535 when the Spanish conquistadors took over their territory."

In Cusco, the steep stone streets had good inlaid gutters running down the middle, facilitated our tromping around in the drizzly rain.  Cusco is a lovely city full of amazing architecture, exquisite jewelry, flowers, friendly people, and good food including various hot soups: asparagus, vegetable, or cream of cauliflower.  Shops selling Peruvian silver jewelry abound.  The center of town is a good place to find well-crafted gifts and textiles like alpaca scarves and sweaters.  Alpacas and llamas graze in little courtyards and pose with colorful traditionally-clad women.

Cusco street photo opportunity
Click here for info on Peruvian animals
For the Incas, Qosqo [Cusco] meant “navel of the world.”  In the 15th century, the Spanish initiated and won a siege against the city, then built what looks like a transplanted Spanish town.  We spent two days exploring their churches piled on top of older Incan temples and learned some history.  As a former Catholic, seeing the Spanish iconography inside the churches was a modified flashback for me.  At least there were no blonde-haired Virgin Marys.  The Incan artisans "hired by" the Spanish were subversive at times, incorporating themes of Peruvian mountains in Mary's garments and decorating with indiginous flowers and colors.

Plaza de Armas, the name of the main square in many Latin American cities, lies at the center of town, the exact center of the empire known as Tahuantinsuyo.  Inca religious and military ceremonies were staged here.  Facing the plaza is La Compania de Jesus, a Jesuit church started in 1571. It took 100 years to build.




Charlene Edge in Plaza de Armas
 
Cusco’s cathedral (photo below) was built between 1560-1654 on the site of the palace of the Incan emporer, Viracocha.  In the church is a painting by Marcos Zapata depicting Spanish-looking apostles at the Last Supper dining on cheese and guinea pig, Andean delicacies at the time!  (no photos were allowed inside churches because of fear theives would learn of all the gold inside).  From our tour info: "It is a magnificent example of European art made by the indigenous population. Its main altar is completely covered in silver, and the church contains many fine paintings from the Cusco School of religious art." 

Cusco's cathedral - the altar is of solid silver. Photo by Charlene Edge

Hoyt Edge on cathedral plaza

The Temple of the Sun is the foundation of what is now a church called Iglesia Santo Domingo (photo below).  The Incas worshipped the sun god, Inti.   Much like beachgoers in Florida?  From the lawn, you can see layers of well-fitted Incan stones that have outlasted earthquakes for centuries. 


Iglesia Santo Domingo, was once El Templo del Qoricancha.  "Walls were covered in 700 sheets of gold studded with emeralds and turquoise, and windows were constructed so the sun would enter and cast a nearly blinding reflection off the precious metal inside." Discover Channel Insight Guides: Peru. Photo by Charlene Edge


As Hoyt calls my pics: "art shot."  Cathedral copula. Photo by Charlene Edge

Gate in Temple of the Sun. Photo by Hoyt Edge
 

Shows how walls were built at angle to withstand earthquakes. Photo by Charlene Edge

Fresco in Temple of the Sun. Photo by Charlene Edge
 After this city tour, we would later visit Cusco again for a day and a half after our Machu Picchu visit just before flying to the Amazon.

Travel tip:  To prevent altitude sickness we took Diamox, but still experienced discomfort so inhaled oxygen from a canister we’d bought at the airport.  ALSO don't forget to try coca, either in tea or in candies.  This is made from a native plant and helps digestion.  Our guide said it also helps with adjusting to the altitude.  We drank tea several times and bought packets of the candies, yum!

Next post: The Sacred Valley near Cusco

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